The Ha Giang Loop
Imagine yourself flying low, along a curvy road, the wind caressing your face. To the right rise green limestone peaks, narrow and tall, etched with ancient terraces. To the left, an awe-inspiring precipitous drop falls towards a gentle flowing river. You move comfortably fast, flowing with the endless curves. All the while, a smile etched on your face. You’ve never had an experience like this before. You pinch yourself to make sure it is real.
It is.
It was mostly cloudy on our excursion — this photo (ripped from the internet) is better.
We pull over to the side of the road to get a look down at where we began. It is an awesome sight. We high-five each other.
“Dad, this was the most awesome thing I’ve ever done. Maybe only second to rafting down the Grand Canyon” Heather excitedly exclaims. Summer nods in speechless joy.
Welcome to the Ha Giang Loop.
It was our latest and greatest Vietnam adventure. And it all started with Summer.
Word spreads quickly through the hostel crowd. And Summer without a doubt has her ear to the keyhole. Vietnam is very popular with the backpacker crowd. It’s cheap, it’s beautiful, the food is good (also cheap) and there are plenty of hostels. But there is one adventure that they all talk about. The Ha Giang Loop. Summer knew all about it. Months before we left, she told me how it was a must see.
It is situated in Northern Vietnam, right along the border of China. Just to the west is Sapa, a popular tourist area know for it’s small villages and good hiking.
But the Loop is all about amazing views, curvy roads and motorcycles.
The Loop is a four day tour, along endless twisty roads, up and down canyons, and through some of the most picturesque areas in SE Asia, if not the world. You don’t see vistas like this anywhere. It’s 400 km long. It winds through unique limestone mountains and small villages populated with different ethnic minorities. It is the poorest area in Vietnam and until recently saw very few tourists. About ten years ago, Vietnamese government decided to start paving over a patchwork of ancient dirt roads that dug through the mountains, resulting in a continuous 400 km loop that begins and ends in the little town of Ha Giang.
The road is still under construction. But that hasn’t stopped some enterprising Vietnamese. Over the last five years, local shops sprouted up, renting motorcycles, adding hostels, opening their doors to young adventure seekers. It’s been growing in popularity ever since.
When we booked a sleeper bus, I should have taken it literally.
After a six hour ride north from Hanoi, we arrived in the town of Ha Giang. We settled into our lovely small hotel and enjoyed our evening. The next morning we would be off.
Summer arranged for our bikes and tour guide. I’ve had a lot of experience on motorcycles (I’ve owned three over the years). Summer is new to the sport but has taken to it. Heather loves bicycles, but is not a fan of having motor push her along. What these tours offer is what is called an Easy Rider. This is where a local experienced rider will take an unexperienced one on the back of their bike. This is what Heather wanted.
Now here is where it gets interesting. I paid extra to have the three of us (plus a guide) take us on our tour. What I wasn’t expecting was that we would be piggybacking onto a larger tour. As I walked up to the meeting area, I became surrounded by what seemed like a hundred 20-something all smiling and chatting with each other, helmets in hand. Our private trip wasn’t going to be that private.
Once again, going with the flow was my best alternative. I have to say that Summer and Heather were right at home.
As it turned out, we did manage to pull away from the group and were mostly on our own for the next four days. We did stop at the same lookouts. Eat at the same restaurants and stay at the same guesthouses. It was a bit much at times, but whatever.
For all the joy this trip brought me, if I were to do it again, I would arrange a private tour.
But that didn’t stop the fun.
We spent the next three nights and four days ascending, descending, twisting right and left, turn after sweet turn. We’d stop for pictures. We’d ride through little towns and villages. We’d watch old ladies carrying impossible bundles of wood, and young toddlers without an adult in sight, all shuffling along the narrow road.
This was their home. We were the strangers here.
Our trip wasn’t only about riding.
One morning we had to drive for a few hours over bumpy, dusty roads and decided to get some protection.
We couldn’t get enough of these vistas.
It’s interesting to note that during the French colonial period, Ha Giang was a strategic location for the French military. They built several forts and outposts to control the local population and prevent Chinese incursions. Ha Giang also became an important location for the communist forces during the Vietnam War. The area saw heavy fighting between the North and the South Vietnamese Armies and their American allies.
And here we were, fifty years later, breezing through this unique mountainous countryside without a care in the world.
The girls with Kai, our lovely guide.
We saw mostly corn cultivation — mostly.
Sure the road was rough in parts and full of dust. Sure you had to be aware of oncoming trucks coming at you around blind curves. Sure you’d be sharing the viewpoints and tourist spots with more youngsters than you’d like. But it got me thinking of what this all will be like in another few years. Once the road is finally finished and word gets out (to all age groups).
Let’s just say, I’m just glad I’m here now.
