September 22 - October 25, 2021

“Damn what’s going on with me?” I asked myself. I spent over a month in Portugal, one of the coolest countries on the planet and now that I’m writing about it, it all turns out flat. It’s boring. No insight or inspiration. No great stories. Blah blah blah.

I know writing is hard, but…

My next blog is Morocco. Now that’s sexy. So much to share and cover. I can’t wait to write it and post it to you.

But all in due time. Portugal is first.

Let’s have another go at this…

September 22

After three months in the US, it was time. I had taken care of my responsibilities. I had spent quality time with family and friends. I counted my blessings and packed my bags.

I was ready. The constant buzz of energy was getting to me. I mean in LA, everyone is going somewhere. More likely, is late to get to wherever they are going. I used to thrive on that, now I can’t wait to leave it. These days I’m much more comfortable with less. Less of everything. More space.

LAX - LIS

The flight to Lisbon was delightful. Business class. If it’s affordable, I’m going start flying this way. Lie flat bed? What’s not to love?

I was looking forward to joining up with my friends Joe and Josee. I met them last January in Dahab. We kept in touch and eventually decided to try traveling together in the fall — through Portugal, Morocco and Thailand (providing borders were open). I’m fine with solo travel, but I also like the idea of having other like minded people to explore with. They were very experienced travelers and I thought I could also learn from them.

They had rented a place in Porto when I arrived so I had the first ten days to myself.

There is a certain freedom to traveling alone. No looking over your shoulder to make sure you’re all together. No long discussions about where, when and what to eat. No miscommunications. No expectations.

It’s late afternoon, I’m in the taxi heading to my hotel. Peering out the window at yet another new town to explore. I town I only know artificially through books and hearsay, a few thoughts pop to mind.

There is always something uncomfortable about arriving someplace new. Honestly, I don’t like it. I’m thrown off my rhythm. I worry about stupid things.

I pray that the neighborhood where I’m staying is worthy and that my room is clean and almost most importantly, is my bed comfortable. At least I don’t care about the pillows since I travel with my own.

So to get grounded (if it’s not in the middle of the night) I like to go out for a walk and check out the neighborhood. Maybe grab a beer. Smell the air. Take it in.

I’m home.

Lisbon has a welcoming feel to it. The air is fresh. And the neighborhoods are beautiful. Somebody put some thought into this place.

Even though the sidewalks are narrow, the streets feel walkable. Though you quickly learn it is built on hills and it seems like wherever you’re going is always on the other side of one. But if you stay down by the water, you can trick yourself into feeling that the whole city is at your doorstep to explore.

I started my Portuguese exploration in southern city of Lisbon for a reason. It was September and the weather was delightful. Warm days, cool nights. North in Porto, even though it’s only a few hours away, it already had cooled down and the rains had begun. I would save it for another visit.

Undiscovered gem or…?

Portugal is a small country with a big past. Once a great nation of explorers, it would be difficult to underestimate the impact that it had on the modern world. Their location gave them a huge advantage. It was relatively easy for them to said directly south to the African coast. They they became the first country to exploit the slave market. They also made a fortune mining gold. For such a small country, they became larger than life building a huge colonial empire. Their impact has lasted to today.

Of course that was many years ago. Looking around now at its shrunken self, it is hard to imagine what it once was.

Indeed it is a country undergoing change.

Riding underneath the radar for so many years, it has turned into one of the most traveled destinations in Europe. Notoriously cheap. Plentiful and great wine. Lovely food and friendly people.

It’s also a retirement haven for Brits and more and more Americans. Who doesn’t know someone who wants to move there? It has a generous retirement visa program. English is widely spoken. And the prices can’t be beat.

Portugal has been on my shortlist for a long time. Could this be my next home?

I was eager to find out.

The first thing I noticed as I walked around was how packed it was with tourists. It’s the first city I’ve visited since the Covid shutdown that looked like the pandemic never happened. Of course people wore masks and often they were obligatory, but there were plenty of folks who didn’t.

What also struck me was how beautiful the city was. Full of monuments and squares. Beautiful tile facades adorn the buildings. Lush tile sidewalks that go on for miles. Colorful trolleys that whisk eager sightseers from one site to another.

And the Portuguese people — you can’t help but love and respect them. Friendly. Caring and forgiving. They genuinely love their country and like to share it with others. And the fact that english is so widely spoken makes a traveler like myself feel very much at home.

There’s always something…

Not everything was perfect. I have to mention the flies. I don’t know if it was the time of year or what, but they were everywhere. In your food. In your eyes. Go away!!!

I figured they must love Portugal as much as everyone else.

Food

What a treat to walk around and see busy restaurants serving plates of fish, meats, potatoes and veggies. And of course wine. Lots of it.

Restaurants were full — you better have a reservation at the more popular ones or you might not get in. Luckily I like to eat early and could usually find a table before the crowds descended.

You have to think of Lisbon as an international city. And as an international city, you can expect to find almost any type of food to fit your mood. But their love of seafood certainly stood out.

And of course, there was the wine. I’ve never been to a country where wine was so cheap and abundant. Whites, reds, ports. Table wines and others of nuanced beauty. I rarely thought twice about ordering a glass or carafe.

Cocktails, on the other hand, were hit or miss. I’ve found it rare in my travels to find a bar or restaurant that ventures beyond the ordinary. Sex on the Beach anyone?

Miles of Tiles

The one thing you can’t ignore. Everywhere you look in Lisbon are tiles, both on the streets and on the buildings. Everywhere you step, you’re stepping on someone’s hard work and artistic vision. It’s another part of the tapestry that makes this city special.

It reminded me of Sáo Paulo. Those Portuguese were onto something.

The Neighborhoods

Alfama is one of the oldest neighborhoods of Lisbon. Full of tiny streets and alleys that meander up towards the castle. You don’t see this in other parts of Lisbon. The reason is that during the great earthquake of 1755, it was the only part of town to go untouched. The earthquake leveled so much of the city that most of it had to be rebuilt from scratch. The wide boulevards that you see throughout are due to that rebuilding. Also it is why so many buildings look alike — they all had the same architect and were built at the same time.

But Alfama stayed the same — tiny walking streets lined with even tinier apartments. The living quarters are so small that the residents basically treat the streets as an extension of their living rooms. They cook, eat and play right outside their door.

Though due to gentrification, you’re seeing less of that. The older residents are selling and leaving — and the Airbnbs are coming.

Homage to the past

While walking the streets of Alfama, I ran across these photographic tiles attached to random walls. They were a part of an art installation by an artist who wanted to show respect to the residents who grew up in this neighborhood. They give a intimate glimpse into their lives and to the past that made this neighborhood what it is today. I was fascinated by these photographs. I found myself looking around to see if I could any of the people to see if they were still alive.

Heading North

A short train ride away from Lisbon were some villages that I was eager to explore.

The first was Belém. It’s an easy trolley ride to get there, but I decided to walk. It turned out not to be the best decision as it was quite a bit further than I thought. At least I got my 10,000+ steps in!

As I arrived, I was confronted by several bus loads of tourists unloading from their hive. Mostly overweight and older, it was a sight I haven’t seen in awhile. I stood there and watched as they waddled towards the nearby Monastery. Was mass tourism back? I’m not sure how I feel about that. Is the world going to race back to the hyper-packed cities and attractions that strained the very foundations of the places we were there to see? Or will a new sensibility somehow emerge? Why am I not optimistic?

Anyway I refocused and scurred away, hoping to get to the ticket counter first.

There was plenty to see — Jerónimos Monastery and the Belém Tower were two of my favs. And of course I had to drop by Pastéis de Belém for their famous Pasteis de Nata!

After catching up on our separate travels (they spent the last month dodging the weather in Porto) we planned a few escapes.

We started with a trip to Sintra — home of a fairy tale castle and the equally impressive Queens gardens below.

We hopped on an early train in order to arrived before the crowds. Hitching a ride to the top on an old Tuk Tuk, we took our obigitory Instagram photos around the castle.

We then discovered this delicious path back down — through the Queens gardens. I’m not sure who the queen was, but I do know that she imported all these ferns from Australia and had them planted. They’ve flourished and created this magic forest.

It’s what you’d a call a perfect day.

The next day we headed back to the seaside village of Cascais.

If I were to move to Portugal, there’s no doubt I would consider this lovely village just south of Sintra, as one of my first choices. It is walkable, cosmopolitan and has great restaurants. Though also a lot pricier than other areas due to its elite popularity.

Thankfully it is also full of trustworthy people. I found this out as I had left my backpack at a restaurant. I was a few miles away when I had a panic realizing that it was not on my back. I flagged down a taxi and headed back. Jumping out of the cab I saw my pack exactly where I left it. Whew. Lesson learned (again). Always check for valuables as you leave.

BIKING ALENTEJO

After two weeks being city bound, it was time to stretch my legs.

I had heard Portugal offers some great biking opportunities. Since Joe and Josee are not commited bikers, I reached out to my dear friend Julia (who now lives in London) and asked if she was interested in joining me for a biking tour of the Alentejo region (east of Lisbon). Being the adventurous woman that she is, she jumped at the opportunity.

We ended up booking a seven day, self-guided trip through Portugal Nature Trails. They were the right choice, setting up and organizing our trip. We didn’t want a guide but needed guidance. They gave us Garmin GPS route trackers and had detailed maps indicating points of interest. They provided the bikes and booked our hotels. I of course wanted e-bikes. Julia was hesitant, being the strong biker that she is. I was persistent. “Julia, how do you know you won’t like them until you try one?”.

A lot of the fun of bike touring in the Portuguese countryside is stopping in these little towns for lunch (and wine). With another 20 or 30 km to ride afterward, jumping onto an e-bike would make the trip home a breeze.

Portugal Nature Trails picked Julia up at the airport in Lisbon and we met up in the hillside town of Evora, a few hours east of Lisbon. And a nice town to visit on its own.

This is where our tour began.

We walked around and found the eerie Chapel of Bones. A must see of course. Built in the 16th century, the local monks decided that the people of this affluent town needed a reminder of their place in the world:

“Nós ossos que aqui estamos, pelos vossos esperamos” is posted above the chapel door.

Translated: “We bones, are here, waiting for yours.”

I like they had a sense of humor.

The next morning we jumped on our bikes and started our tour.

There is something otherworldly about exploring a foreign countryside on a bike. The sights. The smells. The little details that make it come alive. And the best part is that you get to stretch your legs and feel good.

Getting regular exercise during world travels is difficult. All too often I found myself spending the day in a car. A bus or a train. I would go to sleep tired — not feeling that I exerted myself. Bike touring is a great way to earn your sleep.

Our itinerary scooped a wide circle around the Alentejo countryside, through miles and miles of cork forests, olive groves and vineyards.

It was refreshing to be away from the buzz of the city. Our route took us closer to the Portugal of yesterday. We found it harder to find people who spoke English. The pace was noticeably slower. It was quiet. So much so at times I wondered if the villages were deserted. Or was it nap time.

Even though it was October, the weather held up beautifully.

The roads were small, mostly deserted and had just enough hills to make it interesting. We had two choices of routes each day. One around 30 km and another 50+. We are both experienced bikers (plus, e-bikes!) so we always chose the latter.

Marble everywhere

We rode we passed hillsides of marble and quarries dug deep. We discovered how marble is integral to the area. Cities in the region are literally built from it. Though most is shipped to other parts of the world where it is prized for its quality and beauty.

A good night sleep

After a long day on the road, coming to rest at a nice hotel was always a joy. We were thrilled at the places Portugal Nature Trails found for us. These were not ordinary inns — they went out of their way to book us places that were unusual and unexpected.

Without a doubt, the highlight was Hotel Convento de São Paulo — a converted convent built in the 11th century. The endless hallways lined in original tile and artwork were a sight to behold. It was easy to be transported back in time as we walked around in awe.

The hotel was perched out in the country away from other towns. Luckily there was a classic restaurant at the hotel.

In total, we spent seven nights and six days riding from village to village.

What ride isn’t made better by lunch in a Portuguese cafe?

Julia is a great travel partner. It was a joy to have her on this adventure and I look forward to doing another ride in another country with her again.

THE ALGARVE

October was in full swing. Nights were getting cooler, so it was time to continue our migration south and join all the British expats living along the southern coast.

Joe and Josee had already headed there. We chose the centrally located town of Lagos as our homebase.

I jumped on a bus, bid farewell to Julia and took the 4 hour journey south.

Josee had found an Airbnb to stay in. Her niece from Canada was also there. It was a large, but simple, apartment that had a sliver of view to the ocean. It would suit us fine.

Adjustments

After traveling alone, it took me a bit of time to get used to traveling with other people. Agreeing on what to see, what restaurants that we like and figuring out what time everyone is hungry are daily events that sometimes become exhausting. But on the other hand, it’s nice to to have someone around to hang with and share stories.

We got into a pattern where Joe and I would go out for a morning walk and the girls would head to the beach. It was at this time when Joe’s back started giving him trouble. He was in pain and it became harder for him to get out. Or enjoy life.

This is probably when it started…

As I walked around Lagos I sometimes wondered what country I was in — english speakers were everywhere and most of the shops were new. It felt more like a once-thriving-fishing-village-that-is-now-a-tourist-destination located on some semi-remote coast.

But it’s easy to see why people want to live/retire here. We swam in late October. The sun was bright and the beaches were busy, but manageable. Lots of nice restaurants and plenty of places to walk, shop and even meditate.

But even by being surrounded by Portuguese hospitality, I wasn’t loving it. It was missing something important. I felt we had entered a city I might find in Florida — it has become a city that caters to tourists and retirees.

Whatever is left of it Portuguese history is hanging by a thread.

It was now late October. Our time in Portugal was drawing to an end. I had just received my Thailand visa. And we had booked our flights to Casablanca.

One last road trip before we returned to Lisbon.

We all crammed into the tiny rental car and headed to Tavira, the last city you hit before entering Spain (and a short hop from Seville).

It was love at first sight when we arrived. None of the hectic pace of Lagos. It was sweet, pretty and charming.

We arrived in time for lunch (of course). Then spent the afternoon exploring. At one point I heard piano music drifting from a crumbling church. I peeked in and saw a young man playing intently before a baby grand. Beautiful classical music filled the chapel. I sat raptly, almost holding my breath and listened to the music echo off the stone sanctuary. Since covid, I have heard so little live music. It was pure joy to sit there, close my eyes and be transported to another realm.

It was time to return to Lisbon. I didn’t want to cram into the little car with three others so I took the train back. We planned to spend our last few days there before flying to Morocco.

I also got to finally meet up with a Facebook friend of mine, Alice. She’s from Minneapolis and has recently retired, committing herself to world travel. She’s been texting me a lot of questions about what I’ve learned over the last few years. Of course, I’m stoked to see others join the ranks, so happy to share.

Alice turned out to be a lot of fun. She puts good energy into everything she does. I knew I’d run into her again.

ADEUS PORTUGAL

I’ve been pondering lately about impermanence — that everything is in flux. What is here today is gone tomorrow. The only constant is change.

Certainly, travel has brought this concept to the forefront for me. Any thought I’ve had of grabbing onto something and expecting it to be here tomorrow has been thrown out the window. That includes where I sleep. Where I eat. And even what language I’ll be speaking. Not to mention what it’s like when a global pandemic hits while you’re on a boat in Brazil.

I’m okay with that. In fact it has brought me to a fuller appreciation of my life and our world. We are not here forever. Everyone and everything passes.

Things change. People change. Countries change.

Portugal made me aware of how change happens to a country. You could almost see it before your eyes.

It seems Portugal is at a crossroads. A victim of its own success, I suppose. Prices, especially around Lisbon, have skyrocketed in the last few years. Gentrification is on the rise and shows no signs of abating. The tourists keep coming. The retirees keep moving.

Portugal’s own population continues to shrink as many young people move to places that offer more opportunity— leaving an aging population. But what happens when the young leave? This can have huge implications on their future. Nobody has it worked out.

What will Portugal be like tomorrow? We will have to wait and see.

I guess that is one reason I travel. To see things as they are now, before they change. To take pictures and write about it. And wonder…

NEXT UP…

October is rapidly coming to a close. Cool weather and rain are in the forecast. It’s time for warmer weather.

Time for Morocco!