Bhutan and the Dream of Happiness
There is something about the hidden. The impenetrable. Something tucked away behind a curtain. And what if you were told it had magic. And what if behind the veil was actually a country that few people know about it and even less have been.
That place is Bhutan.
And I had to go.
Bhutan is a very small and mountainous country, nestled between two giant neighbors — China/Tibet to the north and India to the south. I imagine that either one could open its mouth and eat Bhutan as an appetizer. The Bhutanese seem all too aware of this fact. But because of that constant threat, they have become who they are — strong and independent citizens who wholeheartedly embrace their culture and history.
Barely 50 years ago, Bhutan opened its borders to the outside world. It is a poor country and depends on the generosity of other nations to survive and grow. It remains nestled in the past, still consulting with Astrologers for guidance and inhabiting a fine line between its ancient customs and the modern world. To see it now, is to look back into time. A unique experience for those who visit and why I encourage my friends to come sooner than later. Because even Bhutan is changing.
But what’s Bhutan really like? I was anxious to find out.
This trip would be a departure from my usual solo travels as I was going to rendezvous with my sister, Stephanie. She is an experienced traveler herself, but we’ve never traveled together. As long as we didn’t find it necessary to “process” our childhood as an adjunct to our visit, I thought we’d be fine. (And I’m happy to say we left closer than we’ve ever been.)
As we flew into Paro, the plane meandered over emerald rice fields dotted with buildings that all looked like they were designed by Disney — white walled plaster walls, punctuated by dark wooden beams. Fairy tale roofs with edges that turned up towards the heavens.
Our guide Wangda and his driver Nema met us at the airport. They were dressed in their native clothing. He was friendly — a veteran guide with a deep understanding of his country. I told him that it seemed odd that the airport was in a little village, over an hours drive to the capital, Thimphu. He nodded, saying that “this was the only flat land where we could build an airport”. During our two weeks of travel, I saw firsthand what he meant.
As we drove towards our hotel in the capital, I gazed out the windows. Remote monasteries dotted the steep hills, isolated, they stared down from the heavens. Imposing fortresses called Dzongs lined the roadside. Everywhere I looked, were reminders of the Buddha, the spiritual inspiration for this ancient country. With little traffic, I seem to breathe easier.
Downtown Thimphu
The first thing that people say about Bhutan “It’s so expensive, but I’d love to go”. As it turns out, to visit, you must pay a mandatory visa fee of $100USD/day. You also cannot travel on your own, but must hire a guide service which includes a trained guide, a driver, lodging and food. It added up to about $300 USD/day for us. Not a bad deal when you think about it.
It certainly does weed back the tourists. Looking around I mostly saw grey-hairs. Not a backpack in sight.
We arrived mid-September as the monsoon season was departing and the high season beginning. You wouldn’t know it. Hotels seemed empty. And the only crowds were at the festivals which were filled with excited locals.
Stephanie and I decided on a 13 day trip. You could do it in 10, but I wouldn’t recommend much shorter than that. Our days were filled with driving from one village to another, often stopping to see and photograph different Dzongs, Stupas and Temples, each with it own story to tell. Wangda loved to share his knowledge and we soaked it in like a sponge.
“I’ve felt like I’ve lived 500 years” he said. At 53 years old, he was born into a remote village where there was no electricity or running water and no roads connecting his village to the outside world. Now iPhones are everywhere.
SPIRITUALITY
Bhutan is a deeply spiritual country.
Buddhism is the main religion making up about seventy-five percent of the population. It’s followed by Hinduism which you’ll find mostly in the south, closer to India.
Buddhism deeply shapes Bhutanese culture, traditions, government, and daily life. Prayer flags, singing drums, monasteries, stupas and temples grace the mountains and valleys everywhere. They draw you in.
Unfortunately you are not allowed to take photos inside the temples. I was moved by the quiet, colorful majesty inside. Some had monks chanting, others were quiet.
I grabbed this shot off the internet. Someone obviously got in.
I heard bells somewhere in the distance. As I got closer, I found a surprise inside.
FESTIVALS
During our visit, our favorite experiences were the festivals. When we set up our itinerary with Wangda, we agreed on mid-September because we would be able to attend three different festivals, each in a different town. And each turned out to be unique. They were all religious in nature — involving colorful dancers in costumes moving to music emanating from ancient instruments. It was so exciting to see the local crowds pack themselves in a circle around the dancers.
So many ceremonies I’ve seen during my travels were more or less staged for tourists. Here, there was hardly a tourist in sight. Total joy.
THE PHALLUS
Truly a symbol of Bhutan. It is a symbol of fertility, protection, and good fortune. It is not viewed with embarrassment or discomfort but as an integral part of their spiritual and cultural identity. It shows the importance of embracing human nature, with a touch of humor.
The clowns or Atsaras at the festivals use them with irreverence. Quite a show.
ARCHERY
It is a deeply rooted cultural tradition and the country’s national sport. It reflects Bhutan’s rich heritage, communal spirit, and love for celebration.
And really fun to watch.
FOOD
Ema Datshi — the national dish of Bhutan. Basically, chili and cheese. I loved it and didn’t have a single meal that it wasn’t served. I dubbed it Bhutanese Chili con Queso. You just have to bring your own chips.
Bhutanese food is known for its simplicity, reliance on locally sourced ingredients and, most famously, its love of chili peppers (which aren’t just a spice but considered a vegetable)
They have a rice based diet, and often eat with their hands. Beef, pork, mutton, chicken and Yak are all eaten. They also grow many types of apples and of course, chilis.
Western food is not common, but you’ll find Indian food in many places.
And you can wash it all down with their local whiskey called Ara. Or a hot cup of Suja, a tea made with butter and salt.
To be honest, I wasn’t a fan of the food. Interesting at first, I soon became tired of it, especially the meat which was tough and often contained many bones.
But that’s coming from a devout foodie. This is not uncommon for me during my travels.
Gross National Happiness
I want to get back to the idea of Gross National Happiness (GNH). It was coined by their 4th king, Jigme Singye Wangchuck not that many years ago. It has caught on and we heard it mentioned many times.
But how do you measure it? Happiness is an elusive beast. Did we expect to see smiling faces in all the men, women and children we saw? We of course didn’t. But to their credit, they do survey ten percent of the population every three to five years. It is a real index and they take it very seriously.
Is it a dream? Let’s see.
Bhutan’s laws that state that sixty percent of their forests must be protected from logging and mining and left in its natural state. The government invests in the local communities, building hospitals, schools and gymnasiums to give the locals a reason to stay in their ancestral homeland and not move to Thimphu.
Has it helped? Let’s just say it’s complicated. The country faces a growing brain-drain as younger people move to other countries (Australia in particular) for education, to make money and to raise their families. I assume that the trend will continue.
The current King and the Parliament certainly have a burden on their shoulders.
The two weeks went fast. The locals were very friendly and welcoming. We drove on twisting roads, stayed in comfortable hotels. We even had a few nights in a local home-stay. We ate local food, hiked and even rode bikes. It’s an outdoor culture that values everything natural.
Keep in mind that the average elevation of Bhutan is over three-thousand meters (over ten-thousand feet)! Our whole two weeks there, I had to stop and constantly catch my breath.
The trip ended appropriately, with an big hike up to the world famous Tiger’s Nest.
A once in a lifetime experience for sure.
As I flew away from this magical kingdom, a few thoughts bounced around my head. I admire what the government is trying to do. I can imagine how difficult it must be to lead an emerging nation in these modern times. And their focus on happiness is admirable.
I looked out the window at the distant peaks. What a special county.
I hope it works.
As always, thanks for reading.
